Band-e Amir meaning "Commander's Dam"--a reference to the Commander of the Faithful, Imam Ali refers to five lakes high in the Hindu Kush Mountains of Central Afghanistan at approximately 3000 meters elevation, west of the famous Buddhas of Bamiyan. They were created by the carbon dioxide rich water oozing out of the faults and fractures to deposit calcium carbonate precipitate in the form of travertine walls that today store the water of these lakes. The groups of five lakes are collectively known as Band-e- Amir. Band-e-Amir lakes are also considered the lakes of jewels. Lakes of Band e Amir are formed naturally with special geological formations. Color of the water is deep blue flourishing with amazing natural beauty.
Very remote and desolate, they are most easily visited from Bamiyan. Shared minivans leave in the high season on Thursday afternoon and Friday morning and cost 150 Afg. Otherwise take a minivan towards Yakawlang (200Af) and get off at the turn-off to the lakes. From there it's a 3 hour hot walk... bring some water.
Private hire minivans are also available (3 hours) and should cost 2000-2500Af, but you will have to bargain very hard for this price. You could also negotiate an overnight stay into the price for a little extra. Don't be shy to ask them to stop for pics en route to the lakes, the scenery is stunning. All services at the lakes close up around mid-November and reopen around March.
Walking is pretty much the only way to get around the area once you arrive, unless you were to befriend the owner of a donkey or horse. If possible try to be up on the road at the top of Band-e Haibat at sunrise (in October the ideal time was 6am) for some great views and, if the water is calm, some stunning reflections of the surrounding mountains in the lake. A trail from behind Hotel de Reves leads up the hill, and a 20 minute walk brings you to some stunning views of 2 more of the lakes. The small mosque-like tomb of Amir looks over Band-e Haibat, and unfortunately there are 5 tacky swan peddle boats available for rent here... a good opportunity to ruin the beautiful reflections in the lake. Behind the tomb of Amir is a women's beach, with a hut built half into the water, allowing women to enjoy a bath in the lake covered from curious views. Taking a bath in the lake is said to cure from diseases (though a lot of rubbish in and around the lake lets one fear the opposite).
At the parking lot near Band-e Haibat some booths are set up, selling some basics, with a very minimal selection... a few biscuits, some batteries, and maybe some mango juice packets. The only available bazaar is a tiny one situated by the side of Band-e Haibat, where a couple of basics can be purchased.
Dir Hotel, Band-e Haibat, is a chaikana and the only place to sleep and eat. A mat on the floor costs 100Af/person, and meals are 120-150Af. They also have 3 very basic dirty rooms in a building next door, ambitiously named Hotel de Reves (dream hotel). While you can have a more private room here, it's also just mats on the floor, and also 100Af/person; most people prefer the much warmer main room at Dir. Camping – The adventurer among the visitors may use the public tent space near the only public toilet around. Sometimes tents are available to rent.
Bottled water is not available, but there is a fresh-water spring which should be fine to drink from (bring your own bottle, and take it with you when you leave). Dir Hotel can provide you with endless pots of green tea (5Af).
Bring as little as you can without creating unnecessary hardship. Day Pack: camera, reading material, water bottle, sun hat, sun glasses, sun screen, chap stick, copies of passport and air tickets, wet-wipes or anti-bacterial liquid soap, and tissue paper.
Luggage: walking shoes, flip-flops, flashlight (torch), mini alarm clock, mosquito repellent, bathing suit (only for Wakhan tours), light jacket (seasonal), winter coat (seasonal), socks, underwear, pants/skirts, shirts, specific medications*, and toiletries.
For Trekking Tours: hiking boots, travel towel, sleeping bag, and air mattress.
Travel Pouch: Passport, money, tickets.
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*On all our tours you should carry First Aid Kits that contain emergency essentials and medication for common travel illnesses.
The problems facing the visitors are harsh terrain, rocky plateau, lack of basic facilities and mined unpaved roads. The surrounding roads were heavily mined by the local militias and the Taliban during their respective reigns. Only a thin track is clear from mines and is in use by traffic. Land mines are prevalent around this area, especially along the road that leads in from Bamiyan. Stick to well-worn paths, and don't stray more than a couple of feet from the main access road.
